Friday, December 1, 2017

Denon DRW-585

A friend who is giving up his cassette deck asked for help to rate and sell the item on his behalf. I then used the deck to transfer some old material from cassette before selling it for my friend aka previous month post.

Was surprised his DRW-585 was still functioning flawlessly after so many years of service - now that's quality that is sadly missing from today's hifi components.

The unit was equipped with Dolby-HX and has all the required bell&whistles eg digital counters, bias adjust, auto reverse, continuous play one deck another the other, dubbing from one deck to the other, etc. The deck perform flawlessly using my Tracy Chapman Cross Roads album.  Reproduction still sounds decent using only a el-cheapo (less than $10) interlink cable from the neighbourhood shops!

The deck sold within a day of listing!!!

Front view of the DRW-585 after power on
Top view of DRW-585 internals
Close-up of ceramic capacitors (391K) for the IN-OUT RCA connectors

Wednesday, November 1, 2017

DIY - How to transfer audio material from cassette to MP3

Since my friend wanted to dispose of his Denon cassette deck, I asked for a loan of the deck to transfer the remainder of my audio on cassette(s) to MP3, before helping him sell it.

On Windows 10, you will require the following in order to perform the transfer successfully.
- Audio software such as Audacity
- Cassette deck
- RCA to 3.5mm headphone jack
- Pre-amplifier, if your PC does not have LINE-IN facilities (as per my Thinkpad)
  - Normal audio RCA-to-RCA cable

If your PC has LINE-IN facilities, you can connect the cassette deck RCA outputs directly to your PC LIGHT BLUE socket. Then startup Audacity and perform test recordings until you determine suitable audio level for your material, before performing the actual transfer.

If you PC does not have the LINE-IN facilities, you will require a PRE-AMP to reduce the output levels from the cassette deck, before it can be properly recorded on the PC. This is because (as per my case) you will have to use the microphone socket on the PC which distorts easily. Connection will then be RCA on cassette deck to RCA  input on the PRE-AMP. PRE-AMP RCA output to the 3,5mm microphone socket on a PC. Then startup Audacity and perform test recordings until you determine suitable audio level on the PRE-AMP for your material, before performing the actual transfer. Please note this process can be use to perform proper transfer from vinyl to MP3.

Transfer from cassette deck  to pre-amp, then to PC microphone with Audacity to perform the recordings

Sunday, October 1, 2017

Craft Audio C3 pre and C4 power amplifier

After moving out and flatting alone in Auckland in the late 1980's, I was searching for a hifi set to call my own.

I have good memories of coming across the NZ made Craft Audio C3&C4 combination at a hifi shop in Ponsonby (don't recall name of the establishment). There were 2 hifi shops more or less just on opposite sides of the street in the Ponsonby area in the late 1980(s)- anybody?

Reproduction from the C3&C4 was extremely enticing but was priced at more than double of my total budget for a complete hifi set (just started working about a year then and the car was a more important requirement in Auckland, as the density was alike that of Los Angeles then).

Pix of Craft Audio C3 and C4 from AudioEnz

For those not familiar with hifi history in New Zealand, Craft Audio was founded by Gary Morrison who later join Peter Thomson at Plinius - his audio relevant experience help shape the Plinius sound of today.

You can read the NZAudio interview with Gary Morrison about the early days of Plinius and when Gary join Peter at Plinius Audio.

Friday, September 1, 2017

Experiment - Soundmate M1 Wi-Fi music streaming receiver (low cost)

As the local SG prices for a proper audiophile grade streamers costing a bomb, I decided to give this low cost streaming receiver a try. Discovered the unit while searching for something else on the China version of eBay.  It is low cost but capable of receiving streaming from any device which supports Airplay, DLNA and QPLAY protocols - basically any Apple and/or Android device! Power is from an external adapter. Initial setup with password is optional.

The theory is the device will act as a pass-thru for material streamed from my iPad. It will be connected via TOSLINK to the Marantz CDA-94 DAC. Hence the streamer will not be processing any of the audio material. Instead it will only convert the material received wirelessly from the iPad, to the fibre optic TOSLINK protocol for processing by the Marantz CDA-94 DAC. Hence no audio processing will be performed by the el-cheapo facilities within the device. If you did decided to listen to the Soundmate M1 analogue output, quality it's what you paid for... yea, could not resist testing the waters for crocodiles!

Possible connectivity scenario's

Soundmate M1 on a CD cover
Connectivity on rear of the Soundmate M1

Always love listening to THE BREEZE when I was living in NZ, so why not use this as the initial session? Download a internet radio app, select the radio station of chocie and link the iPad to the Soundmate - easy as 1-2-3!
Access via iPad
Resolution available thru the internet radio app on  iPad

Sounds as good as my usual FM tuner, the Audiolab 8000T, so very decent quality indeed!

Did note the iPad performs flawlessly only when accessing the WI-FI AC facility. There were periodic pauses when not using the WIFI AC facility.


Streaming quality mode selector in Spotify


Works just as transparently with Spotify and other similar sources. Sometimes Spotify Premium in the Extreme streaming mode did not sound as good as the FM tuner app for some reason - probably due to the recorded material??? Other Spotify resolution lack the proper details in the reproduction and lackluster-ness prevails.

One strong bonus point is that this setup helps to provide a wonderful sampling opportunity (with decent quality) of what's available on the internet without the high cost of ownership for dedicated devices. You can then buy the CD or high definition version later.

Best of all, you can still use the iPad while it is streaming in the background eg games, internet, word processing, etc.

Hence if you are in the same scenario, you can enjoy the benefits without a large outlay IF you have all the pieces of the puzzle except the board to place the pieces!


Items required are :-
1. WIFI streaming device with TOSLINK
2. smartphone or tablet which supports Airplay, DLNA or QPLAY protocol
3. average quality TOSLINK cable
4. DAC or integrated amplifier with a TOSLINK interface
5. (optional) Best if AC capable WIFI router and devices available. Otherwise may need to amend the app buffering facility (TUNEIN buffer had to be made smaller for non AC capable devices)


Enjoy and discover new content for less than SGD$50!!!


Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Plinius 3100B

Continuation from Plinius 2b and VII


As per the Plinius "Plint", there does not seem to be much information or pictures of the 3100B on the internet - not even at Plinius own site.

The Plinius 3100B  is a 100W RMS per channel stereo power amplifier which runs in Class-B mode,

From memory it was well built and weight about 15-18kg. It did not run hot, just warm when driving a pair of Celestion SL6s.

Pix of the Plinius 3100B from NZ eBay equivalent

Pix of the Plinius 3100B (rear) from NZ eBay equivalent
How does it sound?

In general, clear presentation but I find the 3100B lack gruntiness with any control at volumes above 10oclock. What I mean is that it's like the older generation of Honda Civic engines - have horsepower but lack torque. So although it can go loud when driving the Celestion SL6s, that's about it. When the volume was at 50% on the pre-amp, the reproduction sound flat. From memory, no details no soundstage; just VOLUME - basically sounding pretty much like the "run of the mill" present day Class-D amps.

Saturday, July 1, 2017

JVC XL-MV33

A friend who knows of my hobby asked for a "loan of them ears" to rate the reproduction from his JVC Karaoke VCD player Model XL-MV33.

Have seen many such units in Karaoke establishments and in the home(s) of die-hard Karaoke fans. It's basically a VCD player with a built-in Karaoke master mixer bundled with the very handy and intuitive VCR-type controls.

To be honest, I had always consider such units to be children of a "lesser hifi "... BOY WAS I EVER WRONG - you really can't judge a book by it's cover!!!

This stock Karaoke VCD machine does not have the posh nor classy outlook of a proper hifi component but once you hear the quality of it's reproduction, you would realise it's a real diamond in the rough!  All the details were in the output but the resulting presentation was just a tad warmer than it should be, strong output with a bit of background cluttering  and the HF(s) was half heartly with-held. Something in the resulting presentation remind me of a past encounter. Best description would be "almost there but you need to get over the hill 1st". This ugly duckling has the potential to be a swan! 

Cost wise I reckon this would be a good unit to recap ... much better than getting a below $100 DVD player.

The ugly duckling
Closeup view of frontal right side

Closeup view of frontal left side

Only outputs available on the MV33


No digital output facility. Only analogue audio and composite video outputs via RCA sockets.


Top view. Transformer towards bottom of pix.

A quick glance of the caps reveal extensive usage of Panasonic EC(s) with a pair of United Chemicon (OOOPS - ELNA's) on the vertical PCB. There are a number of the Japanese poly capacitors encased in a yellowish transparent plastic jacket on the vertical PCB - without examining in detail, my guess to be the audio pathway(s).

My friend could not decide regarding the possibility of recapping to release the full potential of the ugly ducking and would revert in the near future.

Hopefully I will have the opportunity to work on this ugly duckling in the near future.

Thursday, June 1, 2017

Rotel RA-820AX

Continuation from Plinius 2b and VII


This was the original amplifier my flatmate was using at the time, the Rotel RA-820AX.

Pix form Google
Pix (rear) from Google

He bought it over from Australia, as he had just graduated and started working in NZ (later half of the 1980's). Unfortunately for the Rotel, it's 20W RMS per channel output had a up hill task of driving a pair of then newish Celestion SL6s!!! Even so, the components in this puny amp did not burn up as per the Plinius Plint - you had to crank up the volume before any decent reproduction came out of the SL6s ...😆

For those not familiar with the Celestion SL6 series of book-shelve speakers, they have a reputation for being power hungry but sounding sweet and decent once driven properly.

It was a shoe string budget setup, so you can't expect much. Reason why he then started on his quest for a proper amplifier to drive the SL6s.

Monday, May 1, 2017

Plinius 2b and VII

Had a surprisingly hard time trying to locate pix for these units on the internet - they were hardly any, not even on Plinius own site. Only managed to locate the following on a NZ audio magazine site.

The Plinius Plint from AudioEnz


For Plinius fans who wish to know a bit more of the original Plinius history in NZ, checkout the following NZAudio interview with Plinius Founder, Peter Thompson.

Before the internet era, I was informed by a local Auckland hifi reseller Plinius came about much alike the history of Lamborghini and Ferrari - Lamborghini made his fortune selling agriculture equipment after WW2 and bought a then much desired Ferrari, only to be severely disappointed; had a bad spate of words with Enzo himself before deciding to show the world what a Ferrari should have been, with his own brand of super cars!

I was introduced to the Plinius 2b & VII in 1988 while flatting in Auckland, New Zealand. My flatmate took home a set of the "Plint" for evaluation, to replace a Rotel integrated amp since the Rotel could not drive a pair of Celestion SL6s properly.

From memory, the Plint sounded decent up to 30% of the volume dial. Between 30-50%, it lacked the punch but still maintained it's poise with dignity.

That was until my flatmate decided to leave it at 50% on the volume dial as he wanted to enjoy the music in the garden - after all, it was a beautiful Summer's day.

About 30min later, our noses picked up a strong burning smell in the air! We started checking around the house but could not locate any smoke nor anything burning. It was not until we enter the living room that we hit the jackpot - the smell was chokingly strong there! After more nos-ing around, we were surprised to discover that it was coming from the Plinius VII!!! Needless to say ... no more good audio that day.😏(true account, not made up)

My flatmate returned the Plint on the next working day. Later that week, he returned with a then brand new Plinius 3100B (article for the near future) and a traded-in Luxman C-02.


Plinius 2c (with extra dial but less buttons; looks similar to 2b). From AudioNZ

Plinius VII from local NZ eBay equivalent site

Saturday, April 1, 2017

Original Mission Cyrus 1&2


When I saw the announcement of a new Misson Cyrus One integrated amplifier, it brought back memories of my original UK made Misson Cyrus 1 & 2 amplifiers.

Mission Cyrus pix from Google
Misson Cyrus 2 pix from Google

There are many reviews for the Giant Killer and it's successor on the net, so there's no need for me to repeat them.

Years ago I was visiting a relative overseas and he had the giant killer hooked up to a pair of big AR floorstanders using the original Monster Cable speaker cables. Source was a 300-CD Sony library player ... it sounded delightful and I remember just enjoying the music from his setup. A few months after returning home, I came across the opportunity to own a Cyrus 1&2 from the reuse market.

I do remember re-selling the Cyrus 2 quickly afterwards but kept the giant killer for a few months longer. I finally parted with the Cyrus 1 by selling it to a local Cyrus amplifier collector as I could not locate the preferred AR speakers for it.

Sometimes I do regret selling the Cyrus 1, as it was a simple amplifier which just delivers the performance reliably time after time. The component which often failed after many years of operation is the flick ON-OFF switch. Oh well ...

Wednesday, March 1, 2017

Mission PCM 4000

This brings backs memories ...

PCM4000 pix from internet


Mission produced an extremely good and sweet sounding CD player in the form of the PCM4000 in the late 1980's. 

Both the PCM4K and PCM7K deployed the infamous Philips TDA1541A DAC chipset along with the Philips CDM2 transport, and the Philips RC5 IR remote facility. These CD players ran quite warm, even with the enlarge heatsinks vs their Philips equivalents. As per their Philips equivalents, the units were largely made of plastic.

I had truly very fond memories of the PCM4K as it always sounded "just right". And the larger display was a nice touch as you could view the displayed information from afar. 

Unfortunately the CDM2 deployed on the Misson PCM4K and PCM7K seem to be it's Achilles heel. For some unknown reason, my PCM4K and PCM7K did not enjoy service longitivity??? I bought a used PCM7000 after the CDM2 on the PCM4000 gave way. A few months later the CDM2 on the PCM7000 gave up as well! These back-to-back Mission CDP failure(s) really put me off Mission CD players ever since. The CDM2/10 on the Philips CD650 seem to be still going strong.

Wednesday, February 1, 2017

Technics 808 series - 1st Technics fully remote control component system

Was browsing thru www.audio-database.com a few days ago when I stumbled across the pix(s) of the 1st stereo set I ever own - Technics 808 series of slimline components.

Pix from internet - Technics 808-series package

The 808-series was the 1st Technics fully remote stereo set of components, primitive by today's  standards but advance for 1980. My set was in silver as per the pix above and consists of the following components.

SE-A808  - Power amplifier which can be converted into a monoblok

ST-K808  - Integrated Quartz tuner (with presets), pre-amplifier and built in-timer

SH-R808 - Remote control module

RS-M45   - High performance cassette deck

SL-D33    - Direct drive turntable

SB-L50    - 3-way floorstanders


Purchased the set as it was the best deal in town then - was on a "shoe string budget" as still in secondary school. Major purchase decider was the then advance and rare FULL IR remote facility.

Looking back I always wondered if I should have saved up for a proper set based around the then new Sansui AU-717 ...

Reproduction quality of the set was typical of many Japanese sets from that era - neither here nor there. Not suitable for detail listening but good for rock, heavy metal (and the alike) after you crank up the volume!

Cost for the IR remote facility justified for itself when songs I liked were played on any of the sources!!

Personally I find the cassette deck to be the best component in the setup - you can click on the component list(s) above for more information on them. The other memorable item was the Quartz synthesizer tuner as the station lock was just superb.

Anyway ... the Technics 808 set was extremely reliable and perform flawlessly for well over a decade (even after the speaker cone surrounds gave way).


On a sadder note, I wish my parents had advised to leave the money in the bank instead of splurging on a hifiset. Long story short - If I had left the money in the bank account, it would have accumulated (if untouched) to quite a large sum today! Could then have bought a much better setup (actually enough to buy a house!)... sob sob

Thursday, December 1, 2016

Basic Tube amp from PRC (***Update#1***)

I came across the following mighty mouse on Amazon USA with many good reviews. It was being marketed under a different brand. However, US items are 110V and not suitable for local consumption unless you are willing to invest in a proper voltage conversion unit. For the cost involved, it was simply not worth it.

When I browsing on the China version of eBay (aka TaoBao), I came across the following amp - with specifications and looks matching the Amazon unit and available with a 220V transformer. Hence I bought a unit. It was likely to be the OEM version for local consumption.


Did have doubts of the "looks only" issue eg with different internals. 

A month odd later, the unit arrived. Weights about 9kg. Assembling and setting up was a breeze.

Initial power up and usage proved to be a shocking surprise! For the price, I was speechless by the delivery of the sound quality and workmanship of the unit. 

Apologies no pix of the internals - good thick quality blue PCB with audiophile components which included RIFA 429 poly caps!!!

With less than 20hr on the amp, it is proving to be extremely good value for money. The unit runs hot as it is a SET valve unit operating in Class-A mode with a modest 8W RMS per channel output - more than adequate grunt to drive my LS 3/5A+AB1.

Will provide more update next month once I have time to burn in the unit.


1Jan2017

After listening more to the PRC amp, I realised the reproduction of certain mid and HF tones were a little off. Checking the Amazon link for the non-OEM version, I discovered many reviews recommend replacing the Chinese military spec PRE tube with a Sovtek 6SL7. There were also reviewers recommending replacing the EL34 tubes provided but with just as many indicating to keep the EL34.

Hence I ordered the Sovtek 6SL7 to test the waters since it is not a hefty purchase. Once installed, the improvement was apparent after about 15-20mins. Initially there was a slight high pitched HF in the reproduction with the 6SL7. That slight HF pitch never return after the first 30mins. The reproduction of the voices was now more natural. Actually it was beginning to sound like my previous set-up with the Quad 33-303 acting as the amplifier, if you were listening to the PRC amp in passing aka not in-depth listening.

Am currently contemplating the next recommendation from the Amazon reviews - to change the EL34 ...

Tuesday, November 1, 2016

Analog-to-Digital Converter

I had an issue with the limited number of input sources for my older design units eg limited to single or only two sets of inputs.

Since my DAC is in-use most of the time, I decided to invest in a Analog-to-Digital (A2D) converter for consolidating the tuner output to the DAC. 

That was the easy part ... Had to search hard before purchasing the below as I did not realise how difficult it was to locate such a unit! Most of the market was geared towards Digital to Analogue (D2A) converters. Prices for the available A2D converters were quite shocking as well.

Analog to Digital converter from PRC
Bought the above from PRC since I was buying new batteries for my laptops at the time. The unit was delivered in a nice white box with magnetic latch. Inside the box was a manual in English (surprisingly), a short pair of normal RCA cables and a multi-voltage PSU unit. The unit has two outputs (RCA & TOSLINK) on one side with the LHS-RHS RCA analogue inputs and power connector on the opposite end.

Operation is simplistic as it operates in single direction only eg A2D not D2A. 

Initial testing with the RCA digital output was disappointing - low output volume and the audio quality was mediocre. Changing to TOSLINK, the difference was like night and day! Using a normal TOSLINK cable (about $6 from PRC) and the normal RCA analogue cable provided, my ES tuner sounds as good as the previous direct connection to the amplifier. 

Hence I am now able to use the DAC as a source consolidator for the older vintage amplifier units in my collection.

Saturday, October 1, 2016

DIY PROAC 2.5 Clone (Part- 3)

Continuation


Finally, the custom made clone cabinets arrived! It was delivered in a wooden crate with a label indicating the contents have a combined weight of 56kg!

Clone cabinets delivered (top of wooden crate removed)
Front of cabinets after un-boxing
Rear of cabinets after un-boxing

The physical dimensions were to specifications and the purchased bass port fits perfectly!

Testing how the bass port fits into the rear port opening. The crossover will be position opposite of the end of bass port, with most of the weight support by the bracing. Will use a velcro mechanism to hold the crossover to the internal wall

Since I requested for the bracing, had to literally force foam onto the bottom half of the cabinet. This is necessary to reduce unnecessary reverberations there. Had open-up a B&W 800 series before and that's what they use as well.

Putting foam into bottom half of the cabinet

Will be using MDM-2 in the top half of the cabinet.

MDM-2 for top half of cabinet
Forming top portion of MDM from package to fit top of cabinet, with cut along the edges
Fitting MDM inside top half of cabinet

Initial insertion of the ScanSpeak drivers onto the cabinets provided such a prefect fit I did not even have to deploy the screws for the first week of initial testing!

Initial fitting of drivers onto the cabinet

Ohm reading after insertion of speaker connectors and cabling of all internals

Close-up of one of the cabinets during initial usage

Initial usage was jaw dropping! Really sweet with bass to match ... no wonder the ProAc 2.5 is hardly available in the resale market.

It is a suprisingly power hungry speaker though. Will dig out my 200watt's power amplifiers once I have a chance to cleanup the room.

Shall update again once I have a chance to burn them in...

Saturday, September 24, 2016

Rhodium plated connectors

I had been pondering on a purchase of Rhodium plated connectors for a quite a while. Finally decided not to proceed.

A brief intro to Rhodium for those not familiar. Rhodium is a rare earth element in the same group as platinum, gold, silver, etc. Quote from Wikipedia - "Being a noble metal, pure rhodium is inert. However, chemical complexes of rhodium can be reactive." 

Rhodium plated items are not cheap. They are normally available as high end automobile spark plugs as well as high end hifi connectors.


Decided not to purchase any Rhodium plated connectors after someone on a hifi forum who was touting the benefits of using an high end contact cleaning fluid on their own Cardas Rhodium speaker connectors. He show a pix of the contaminants after using the high end contact cleaning fluid on a cotton bud afterwards, as well as reporting audioble reproduction improvement.

One has to ask - is the Rhodium plating of the Cardas Rhodium connector pure??? 

Based on the chemical properties of the element Rhodium, it should be inert. In theory, when he cleaned the Cardas Rhodium connectors, there should be no noticable residue to the naked eye - not the proportionally largish dark patch on the cotton bud, as shown ... unless it was not pure Rhodium but a chemical complex based on Rhodium.

Hence my personal logic is why pay extra for this Rhodium plating when one still has to clean the connector vs a normal gold plated version ... unless you have plenty of extra cash to spare

Thursday, September 1, 2016

DIY PROAC 2.5 Clone (Part-2)

Updates

The cabinets have been completed and the provider have requested for additional curing time before putting the finishing touches. Looks like I can only complete the DIY after another month or so. The pix the provider sent over did look ok but were very low resolution.

Will be purchasing the specified drivers from overseas, as the local agent pricing was not that convincing (prices are before GST). In addition, delivery costs are extra from the agent.  In the past, I have bought quite a number of drivers from overseas without issues - hence no brainer for myself. It's my choice and am comfortable with it - hey I have even Fedex a 29kg power amplifier from overseas before!

In the meantime, most of the PRC Ebay items arrived about 2-3 weeks after payment - as per below.

Speaker driver terminal connectors 
Speaker terminals with long lugs



Managed to locate a ready made bass port with the required specs - would have preferred a all plastic component though.
Correct spec ready made bass port for the cabinet


The following cutout was made in preparation for drilling the holes to place the speaker lugs with provision for a bi-wire layout (since I was at it). Will position the bottom of the cutout just above the bass port opening of the cabinet. Then will drill the designated 1st set only.
Cardboard skeleton for drilling speaker terminator lugs

Bought these from a local hardware store. S&P within PRC was not viable.
For cable termination from crossover to speaker lugs


The following pix shows the clone crossover schematic at the top, and, the PCB circuit diagram for the crossover board purchased at the bottom. You can see my scribbles over the PCB schematic.
Reference circuit diagram at top with the modifications for the PCB layout

The main reason to buy the crossover PCB was to simplify the crossover component layout and permit a compact PCB vs a DIY crossover board. In addition, the compact PCB can be positioned thru the woofer driver port and will fit neatly between the woofer and the bracing within the enclosure, in a vertical position with the back of the PCB against the wall (using the internal bracing to hold the weight of the crossover). If you refer to Part-1 for the enclosure specs, you will then understand why.

I decided to not separate the tweeter and woofer access points as I do not see any real advantage doing so. Anyway, it is relatively simple to convert the PCB connections to support a bi-wire configuration (separate and hook-up 3 GND connections on the tweeter circuitry), since the connectivity on the PCB has been separated into INPUT and GND for inputs with HF OUT, LF OUT and GND for outputs. Another reason for choosing this particular PCB.
Completed crossover


For the curious, the inductors are constructed from 1.5mm copper and hence weights quite a bit. I did find it necessary to cut the original straps on the inductors, to reposition the termination point for better connectivity to the PCB. Had to re-drill the PCB holes for the inductors as the original on the PCB were just too small.  The green caps are 1uF Russian PIO (Paper-In-Oil) capacitors. The black caps are ERSE Audio. The PIO(s) were combined in-parallel to create the custom values as per specified on the clone schematics. The PIO in the middle of the PCB was mounted on a daughter DIY board (space restrictions). The ceramic resistors were purchased from Malaysia as they cost about SGD$2 (each!!) locally  and are much cheaper in Malaysia (roughly SGD1->MYR2.98). A friend help acquire them on a family trip.


Internal cables will be as per my DIY LS 3/5A. Had to re-drill the PCB to accommodate these cables as well.

Am awaiting for delivery of black hex screws for securing the drivers to the cabinet.

Monday, August 1, 2016

DIY Quad PRE/POWER DIN-RCA interface

While awaiting parts for the Proac clone to arrive, I finally had the need to make the following for myself (after making a few for clients).

It's a simple interface converter to enable old Quad models to be connected to other equipment. Pin-outs are at http://myoldvintagehifi.blogspot.sg/2012/02/bi-amping-quad-303.html

Plastic case from EBay
4-pin DIN for Quad pre/power amp connectivity to RCA
RCA from Ebay
Decided to try using a solid copper core for transporting the LHS and RHS signals, as the previous units were completed using normal cables. Earth connectivity remain unchanged.
Solid core copper cable used for connectivity
Been using it everyday for the past week ... so far, so good